Following the preparation of opening of his New York store this summer, Dion Lee explained his head has been in a “construction brain” — evident by the heavy workwear influence in his fall collection. While Lee saw them as construction characters, they were impossibly cool and very much within his signature world of amped up subversive sex appeal and experimental tailoring.
The starting point, which was sprinkled throughout, included his love of tailoring and removable elements — a sleek black button down had detachable thick leather glove sleeves, shorts followed with pant legs-meet-work boots and a leather moto bustier was paired with tailored slacks with a removable leather skirt, each look clasped (or unclasped) with a multitude of hook-and-eye closures. Workwear aprons (in black leather worn with juxtaposing sheer lace sleeves), tool belts (cue the sexy ultra-mini skirts) and large utility pockets (on shearling and leather outerwear and cargo trousers with contrasting chunky cutout knit tops) also came into play.
“Taking that idea of utility with decorative developments,” Lee explained.
Throughout, Lee played to the idea of revealing and concealing through textural experimentation — seen through a light reflective puffer coat (a nod to high visibility safety wear — which the designer also subtly played into with two-tone knits) atop a slinky perforated knit dress and new layers of lace and latex. For instance, a literal head-to-toe bright blue sheer lace layered catsuit or tan sweatshirt dress with integral hood and face mask (styled with a new pocket belt take on his now signature leather harnesses).
“I was looking at the idea of architectural facades and masks, obviously the influence of face coverings at the moment — feeling like it becomes part of your identity in a way.”
Two years into the pandemic with considerations for how masks will continue to play into our collective wardrobes, who doesn’t that statement resonate with?