“Amidst an ever-changing landscape of resources, unexpected obstacles and a world feverishly digitizing new standards of reality, my sentiment is unwavering — creativity is essential to living. We share our choices in contrast to the ongoing brutality and ugliness of a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls,” the words of philosopher Nietzsche read on the show notes at Marc Jacobs’ latest runway show.
On Monday evening at the New York Public Library, the designer channeled Nietzsche’s words — “We have art in order not to die of the truth” — proposing six minutes of creativity-fueled fashion power titled “Choice.” A fitting narrative given Friday’s Supreme Court decision to overturn Roe v. Wade (amid numerous ongoing world issues).
Jacobs pushed his prior two collections’ enveloping, dystopian shapes further, melding classic American sportswear silhouettes with couture-like sensibility in intriguing fabrications (a list included vinyl, rubber, plastic, plaster, glass, foil and more). Fall 2022 was a smart, continual narrative of spring and fall 2021 — a message of protection with quirky, cool sensibility.
Standout, oversized chunky pastel knit cardigans, jumpers and vests were piled and knotted atop one another; bustles of dresses and skirts were the result of wrapped jackets around the waist; funky gowns had bulbous, dramatic shapes, and painted denim (a reprise of his lengthy, low-slung skirts) came in punchy painted hues. Styled with sharp-edged haircuts, oversized headscarves and bags, long leather gloves and mile-high platforms, the looks strongly juxtaposed his slightly minimalist styles in a masterful play on proportions in the same dystopian vein.
For instance, a long ribbed tank dress, folded down as a skirt, with a voluminous foiled top with sweeping train, a trio of soft-hued scrubs, sleek and boxy tailoring, barely there corsets, and micro-mini sparkling bra tops.
Reaching beyond the walls of the library and into the streets of Times Square, where the show was livestreamed onto the big screens, the show proved the power of fashion — and the strength of creativity that has made Jacobs a star throughout his career.