Benjamin Benmoyal continued to move in a more commercial direction for fall, successfully injecting the Moroccan influences that characterize his esthetic into an increasingly minimalistic lineup with broader appeal.
This season only a single look was crafted entirely from his signature upcycled cassette-tape fabric, a tailored pantsuit with a side tie at the waist in a contrasting fabric. Elsewhere his striped motifs were found as patches of material, down the sides of a tailored wool coat, for example.
The remainder came from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Nona Source platform, which is allowing young designers access to high-end deadstock fabrics at competitive prices. Buttons, meanwhile, were crafted from materials like waste scallop shells and recycled eyewear frames, sourced from small-scale manufacturers.
Focusing on recycled wool, Benmoyal created tailored jackets, flared pants with slits down the sides and shirts made from rectangles of fabric to avoid waste, giving them flared sleeves and cape-like details. A padded collarless jacket in beige was paired with matching shorts, one example of how Benmoyal succeeded in translating his summery aesthetics for less clement seasons.
The palette – fittingly autumnal – was informed by fabric availability, rather than esthetic considerations, Benmoyal said. “The limitations are what inspires me to be more creative.”
Later this month, the young designer will launch a capsule collection with French catalog business La Redoute.