Denmark’s Heliot Emil sought to explore what the uniform of the future might be in its “Solitary Uniform” show, juxtaposing its austere utilitarian aesthetic and integrating advancements like 3D-printed garments, technologies like RFID GPS blocking or anti-radiation fabric properties.
Creative director Julius Juul once more offered razor-sharp suits, body-con shapes with cutouts and oversize jackets, layering them neatly in largely monochrome looks.
Textures provided a sense of depth, with gleaming foil effects furthering the futuristic bent of the lineup. Metal hardware were the only visible adornment but curving seams also felt decorative by breaking the austerity of these lines. Seeing models move in them belied any preconception of stiffness, though odd-looking footwear made for ungainly steps, and pointed to clever constructions.
While there have been others who explored this kind of severe minimal aesthetic, Juul’s pin-sharp execution made it for an attractive — if hardly uplifting — proposition.