For the fourth iteration of his Obsession series, South Korean designer Kiminte Kimhekim moved his aesthetic forward with what he called “the most natural and primitive material”: hair. Nostalgic about playing with Barbies as child, he sourced the faux tresses from an old wig shop north of Seoul. “I like to draw my inspiration from my childhood because I realize the pure joy of creating is started from there,” he told WWD.
A stripped-down schoolgirl uniform is topped with a hirsute necktie, long strands are braided into corsets and sharp-shouldered dresses, and loose curls fall from cropped jackets and boots. It makes for a somewhat disconcerting contrast in still photos, but in the accompanying film — also helmed by the designer — shots of couturiers dressing the models gives an air of bouncy movement.
The idea translates better to other textiles. Asymmetric tweed suits, skirts and singlets have unfinished edges, and it’s also used to winning effect as a wave pattern on denim. Coats with zip hoodies have a quirky edge, and his sharply tailored trenchcoats are as masterful as ever. Shiny milk-white leggings add a bit of unreal plastic perfection.
Never one to shy away from toying with identity, this collection is for anyone who wants to be dolled up — but never delicate.