Mossi Traoré’s “crush” artist of choice this season was French sculptor Angélique Lefèvre, whose work he discovered on Instagram, inspiring him to reach out for a tie-up. Her entirely white forms made with organza, resin and PET informed a series of prints in specially developed shades of blue, punctuating his otherwise monochrome lineup.
The collection was displayed on mannequins in the manner of an art exhibit in a space at the Carrousel du Louvre that Mossi has occupied since December, a hybrid between a retail outpost and a gallery. “It’s a place that tells the story of who I am, a bridge between the suburbs, the center of Paris and the cultural world,” Traoré said. “Urban culture is not just about streetwear.”
In case there was any doubt, his collection was a concrete reminder. Traoré’s creative influences, including Madame Grès and Yohji Yamamoto, were evident in the designs, with their asymmetric lines and clever pleating and draping to create distinctive yet understated silhouettes.
Recurrent shapes included an asymmetric skirt, with pleated panels and a pair of sleeves that were tied around the waist, in black. There was also a layered batwing jacket with a zipper fastening featuring one of Lefèvre’s prints. A simple white poplin dress had six sleeves, allowing it to be manipulated into a multitude of silhouettes.
Coats, dresses and skirts were offered in padded versions, with square stitching details, available in plain black or in white featuring an abstract skull motif in blue. They nodded to urban wear, but had a distinctly elevated feel. Ditto the customized Stan Smith sneakers hanging on a pillar by their laces like artworks, the first time Traoré has collaborated with Adidas as an integral part of the collection.
Around a fourth of the lineup was made from super-soft casein fiber, a cotton alternative made from expired milk. The fabric was sourced in Italy for this collection, but Traoré is working on a research project with the European Center for Innovative Textiles, or CETI, in northern France to eventually develop production in France, providing opportunities for local farmers and industry.