Moving from the Marais to a new studio in the shadow of the Père Lachaise cemetery gave Véronique Leroy the chance to dig through her archives. So she mined her own memories, incorporated nods from some of her greatest hits and gave them new twists and proportions.
Leroy found herself “obsessed” with wool this season, using Shetland and Harris Tweed on waffle-weave separates, sweater dresses and cozy teddy capes. The collection was presented in easy-to-wear layers that included boxy jackets, swingy circle skirts and loose-fitting trousers. Pops of acidic colors in turmeric and chartreuse kept the collection just this side of sedate.
A series of coordinating separates in collars, hoods, micro-vests and bra tops worked like a puzzle Leroy pieced together, imbued with a sense of soft protection in fuzzy mohair.
Accessories were highlights: fluffy boots were fun, while coated Plexiglass jewelry completely morphed with each outfit.
References to the ’80s were mostly subtle in shape and texture, though some were more literal, such as an oversized nylon raincoat with V-shaped power shoulders. “That’s always a little bit true, those are the years I adore,” she told WWD of adding hints to the decade in which she started her career.
The accompanying film charts this journey through time, as the last shot settles on the Brussels central train station, back in the home country where the Belgian designer’s story began.