Victor Weinsanto’s latest fashion show started out as a whodunnit — the popular board game Clue was the conceit — and ended up a “Was that really her?” as “Emily in Paris” actress Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu vamping it up on the runway as a possibly murderous bride. Or “soon-to-be widow,” she teased backstage, lifting a bouquet of pink roses to her chin from under her giant hat.
Every suspect in this entertaining show, however, seemed to be some variation on Miss Scarlett, the femme fatale character in the game, given the designer’s penchant for velvet catsuits, filmy minidresses and sexy pants that lace up the back like a corset. His formative experience at Jean Paul Gaultier was felt in the cabaret theatrics — from pseudo S&M accessories to Medusa-esque headpieces — and the filmy mesh T-shirts, his printed with grainy photos of various female idols.
But for every absurd sheer tube dress with fluffy feathers framing the hips, there were completely plausible things to wear: a velvet topcoat with a gathered back, a fierce black pantsuit with feminine shoulder draping and a terrific quilted evening coat. Blue jeans came with illusion stocking garters, and puffer jackets were blown up into huge, bulging and twisting confections to protect the wearer from being accused of being a boring dresser.
“I wanted something a bit romantic, but also dark,” Weinsanto said backstage, noting that he mixed in more boyish, commercial pieces this season, including bomber jackets and jogging pants.
A semifinalist for the LVMH Prize, Weinsanto said he’s doubling down on defining his brand essence, without watering down its mischievous, sexy core.