The fall 16Arlington show unfurled amid a set of ground coffee — and designer Marco Capaldo also incorporated that shade into a collection that riffed on the act of awakening, in its myriad meanings.
“Waking up from one day to the next in new circumstances; I wanted to recreate the kind of cocooning effect that feels like a hug,” Capaldo explained backstage, referring to his grieving process for Kikka Cavenati, his partner in both life and work, who passed away in 2021 following a sudden illness.
“Life goes through darkness and it goes through light,” the designer said, explaining the sequencing of the show, which opened with a white, plunging V-neck sweater with an embroidered trim, followed by delicate cocktail dresses in sheer black, teal and lilac.
Capaldo didn’t hold back on the glamour, letting loose with sequins galore and heavy embroidery that referenced the label’s Italian roots.
The proportions were fun and experimental, including egg shapes, slinky slips and hard-edged outerwear in faux crocodile leather.
Capaldo is now confidently sitting in the driver’s seat of the label and steering it toward minimalism with an elegant twist. He also introduced menswear.
“I looked at what I would embody… quiet luxury, the fit and just [keeping it] super simple,” he said.
The men’s tailoring was clean, sparked with elements from the womenswear collection, including blazers with embroidered edges; shimmering, long-sleeve T-shirts, and fuzzy knitwear.