Marlene Dietrich and 20th century glamour dominated David Koma’s mood board for fall — with a dominatrix twist spun in there.
The Georgian-born designer amped up the glitz. He took his show to the 11th floor of the commercial skyscraper at 88 Wood Street and drenched the floors, walls and pillars in red.
Dietrich’s tuxedo shirt was remixed into different variations, including fishtail gowns and shirtdresses.
“I always find shirting very erotic. Now more than ever was the good timing to go back and investigate the masculine-feminine approach and all the androgynous style that she was so open-minded and forward-thinking about back then,” Koma said of Dietrich. “For me she really epitomizes the modern woman.”
The designer noted he studied all aspects of glamour, from shoe heels made of glass, red nail varnish and satin lapels, which were all incorporated into his collection.
This season felt more grown-up and serious than any other David Koma show. The attention to detail impressed, from the perfectly cut hems, PVC coats that hovered just over the floor and shades of red that ranged from matte to shiny.
The majority of the looks were embroidered with hand-cut leather flowers dipped in red nail varnish, which Koma said he used to represent provocative femininity.
He collaborated with jewelry designer Emily Frances Barrett to produce cigarettes turned into resin pendants. “The image of a smoking actress has always fascinated me and in the ‘30s it was considered vulgar,” he added.