Edward Crutchley is one of the few London-based designers lucky enough to be able to use his fashion show to simply express his creative vision without thinking too much about commercial viability, thanks to his decade-long gig with Kim Jones, and people love him for that.
During the pandemic, he had been focusing a lot on queer identity with dramatic showpieces, which became a bit predictable in the end.
That’s why it was refreshing to see his fall 2023 collection was realized in a very articulated manner, while the queerness is still there for those who are looking for it. One model wore a pair of dramatic horn-shaped underwear inspired by a codpiece from the Middle Ages, for example.
“I think when you had made the statement, it then becomes part of your work and I don’t necessarily feel the need to talk about it,” Crutchley said backstage.
Dominated by the colors black, white and gray, he offered a great selection of wool coats, puffers, chunky knits and tailored jackets, as well as ruffle dresses, one in black for women and one in white for men.
“The collection is more concise, and limiting the palette is that thing in design where you gave yourself more restrictions and you actually become more creative,” the designer added.
There was a bit of fun, too. He covered slouchy pants, oversize knitted vests and silk dresses with cartoon motifs that were inspired by a proto-coloring book from the 16th century, and curious woodcuts that feature in illustrator Richard Breton’s “The Drolatic Dreams of Pantagruel.”