Inspired by the allegory of Plato’s Cave, Sarabande resident designer Yoav Hadari explored issues of mental health and identity.
“I saw the cave as a place of the subconscious, so the collection tells a story of someone coming into their own subconscious to face their own fears. For me, this comes from talking about queer identity, because I am queer and neurodivergent,” said Central Saint Martins graduate Hadari, who has previously worked for Thom Browne, Schiaparelli and Alexander McQueen.
The designer drew on their background in tailoring, making black and white garments that followed the body’s curves. Raw hems and clever pinning and tucking created the illusion that models were fighting to break through the folds of fabric.
For fall, Hadari collaborated with fellow Sarabande resident Anouska Samms, an artist who makes woven structures, ceramics and tapestries with human hair.
Samms created handmade textiles for the collection, in particular a yarn overlay that was interwoven with long, black locks of hair. Hadari layered the piece over a white, mid-length sheer dress, in a fusion of art and life.