Cheers rang out for hometown fashion hero Nensi Dojaka at the conclusion of her fall show, in which she continued to ply the same sultry lingerie chic that helped her bag the 2021 LVMH Prize, and win celebrity endorsements from the likes of Beyoncé, Anya Taylor-Joy, Olivia Rodrigo, Sienna Miller, and Rita Ora.
It’s an achievement that her intricate, body-baring designs are already immediately recognizable by the frilled bra cups, multiple spaghetti straps, and heart-shaped details in illusion tulle.
It can be a trap, too, which is why her fall collection also included jeans, small leather blousons, long tailored coats, sleek knits and even a chunky faux fur studded with big crystals. She did pants her way: tight leggings that flared out in godets past the ankle.
“Expanding the wardrobe based on what I’d done before,” Dojaka explained backstage. “And I guess it was more minimal because I think we’re entering a more minimal phase.”
Also new were the many dresses that fully covered the body, albeit in fine jersey, stretch velvet or black sequins — all clinging tightly and occasionally opening up with circular cutouts at the back, or notches at the waist. Little Black Dresses predominated, with swooping, asymmetric bra cups, little frills on the hips, and fluted sleeves echoing her godet pants.
The finesse was there, but the heat came at a slower boil.
To be sure, the designer seems determined to build her brand on solid foundations.
In a recent interview with WWD, she said her sales more than doubled with the spring 2023 season, with wholesale accounts jumping to 90 from 59. She’s launching an in-house e-commerce site later this year and in the mid- to long term, hopes to open boutiques in cities like London, Milan, Paris and New York.
Creating a broader wardrobe looks like a step in the right direction. Her fall range also included a collaboration with Bunney on jewelry and headbands made of silver and leather.