Alberta Ferretti dubbed her fall collection “After dark blooms,” and, ahead of her show, spoke of a nocturnal garden as the inspiration for her designs this season. Accordingly, the supersized roses on the red slipdresses had a darker shade; the velvet gown with a high neck and open at the back veered to a deeper burgundy hue. And there was plenty of black, but never muted — and “never sad,” she underscored — or rendered lighter through sheer veils or sequins “always to enhance the body.”
Ferretti noted that the textures were particularly important, citing for example a ribbed coat in iridescent gray.
The silhouettes were linear and clean, sensual and feminine in Ferretti’s signature style. The first exit out exemplified this vision — a gray sleeveless bustier dress that hugged in all the right places.
The coats were standouts, cocooning and at times embellished with shearling details, and a belted leather trench with epaulettes will never go out of style. Speaking of trends, there’s no doubt Ferretti knows her customer and designs with that woman in mind — but with this collection she was particularly on trend.