Andrea Adamo must have been born under a water sign: He had his models stomping through partially drained reflecting pools last season, and for his fall show they traversed an indoor downpour erected in the middle of the runway.
“I Can’t Stand the Rain,” Ann Peebles sang on the soundtrack, tongue clearly in cheek.
By now the designer is known for knits that cling without having to be drenched with water, often bearing cutouts clustered mainly around the armpits.
He loosened things up considerably for fall, adding beefy shearling car coats and long, fluffy robe coats belted just under the bosom. There were also thicker rib knits, seen a lot around Milan, either caressing curves or completely cloaking them.
With their hanging flaps, straps and tulle overlays, his clothes can overwhelm the eye. But they convey an edgy, underground sensibility that rounds out the Milan fashion offering.