Andrea Incontri hinged his second United Colors of Benetton collection on the concept of infinity, mindful of the history of the brand, and “to transform the linearity of time into an endless cycle of products,” he said before the show. This was telegraphed by rooms in Milan’s Museo della Permanente filled with mirrors, which reflected the models on the runway.
“To repeat creates consistency, this has always been a democratic, industrial brand and we are proud of it,” said the designer.
Color remains central to Benetton, enhancing linear shapes, so one would hardly expect the coed lineup to include a series of gray looks, from furry jackets to cargo pants, and black-and-white designs.
However, this was only a small portion of the collection as Incontri delivered what Benetton customers expect, shifting his focus to dresses and pants-and-blouse combos with colorful psychedelic optical motifs, floral and mushroom patterns, regimental stripes and prints of supersized polka dots.
The tailored looks in seven saturated shades, from ultramarine blue and primrose yellow to emerald green and hot pink, among others, were styled in a fun combination, mixing and matching the hues.
He admitted there was no special reason for choosing the rabbit, stylized for jacquard inserts or prints.
Incontri moved the brand beyond its knitwear core, although there were still plenty of cozy cable knits and maxi-crochet cardigans.
The designer has no intention of overturning the essential elements of the brand, which makes plenty of sense, but he is breathing new life into Benetton with a joyful touch and covetable pieces.