Gone are the pink-hued, flirty fashion days of Nicola Brognano at Blumarine. The designer is increasingly venturing into a rawer — but always seductive — image for his woman, this time playing with fire, too.
The brand’s B logo was torched into the pyrotechnic set that infiltrated the Instagram feed of the fashion pack in between videos of Dua Lipa’s appearances at shows in Milan. The bonfire Brognano erected was a nod to Joan of Arc, his seasonal muse — a big shift considering this is a designer who usually doesn’t rely on inspirations, but rather takes an instinctive visual approach.
A symbol of freedom and independence, the French heroine and her fiery character were still filtered through Brognano’s signature Y2K aesthetic. The designer armed models with second-skin draped minidresses, leggings and tops in liquid metallic jersey, and shielded them with sturdy shearling jackets, going from cropped cuts to floor-sweeping length.
Medieval chainmail was traded for revealing gold mesh halter neck tops and body-hugging, see-through long dresses that oozed sensuality way more efficiently than the low-rise miniskirts included in the lineup.
A plethora of buckles and studs punctuated coats, bustiers, bomber jackets, knickerbockers and accessories to telegraph a tough vibe, while the brand’s distinctive body-con knitwear and chiffon dresses with cascading frills introduced softer textures as a counterpoint.
Closing with a fire-red frayed number that looked like it emerged from flames, the show fueled Brognano’s narrative, but lacked that spark that could have further ignited the heat he’s bringing back to the brand.