“Beauty is the pleasure that derives from speed, in the movement and the transient, what is about to take place,” according to Ferrari creative director Rocco Iannone, who said he was exploring “beauty in motion” for the brand’s coed fall collection.
Cue a padded ankle-length skirt or a parka in pink, not usually associated with Ferrari’s signature red, but a hue that is “potentially red, a transitional shade before it saturates,” the designer mused. That’s not to say red was absent from the runway, seen for example in a cozy kimono coat for her, or a quilted boiler suit for him.
The first looks out were sleek and minimal such as a gray overall, a sophisticated version of Ferrari’s racing track gear and a must for the brand’s fashion lineup to link with its sports activities. These were followed by billowing padded pants, which were fun but perhaps a bit gimmicky.
Graffiti motifs appeared as prints and jacquard weavings but never fully completed, using mixtures of colors in progress. The Ferrari logo was disguised in some of the patterns.
Iannone reworked denim canvas with spray-dyeing techniques that gave it a workwear vibe on baggy boyfriend jeans and bike jackets over silver ankle boots.
The designer has a meticulous approach to fabric research and employed a thick satin made from recycled tires. Artisanal looking knits were created by 15 yarns spun together.
Iannone chose Milan’s 18th-century Palazzo Citterio in the Brera arty district as the show venue because it has elements of modern industrial design architecture. It will become a permanent modern art exhibition space to symbolize the exchange between history and today’s influences, as he continues to evolve Ferrari’s traditional tropes with fashion’s contemporary trends.
The designer has a very clear point of view and aesthetic sense, heightened by couture craftsmanship, but remains aware that staying true to Ferrari’s legacy references is key for the brand’s identity in the crowded fashion arena.