Focusing on clothing rather than characters seems to be the season’s mantra. The MM6 team dissected and reassembled key wardrobe tropes so wildly to the point where one couldn’t tell which individual pieces made up the looks.
In the nonlinear Maison Margiela thinking, it’s easier to splice garments up, twist them, turn them inside out and piece fabrics together rather than layering them atop one another.
Low-cut denim pants had built-in briefs; boxy blazers came with two lapels suggesting layering; padded vests over leather perfectos were mixed-media outerwear; the hoodie peeping out from under a camel topcoat was in fact a removable scarf, and ditto for lightweight aprons fluttering on gauze knits.
Uneven surfaces were the literal thing, since denim had a metallic foil finish or was splashed in shiny glue-like coating.
It was all grounded in chunky-soled boots with a vaguely clog-like toe, thigh-high or covered in metallic foil.
The trick harked back to the very essence of the Margiela universe: exposing what’s behind and inside garment making. Having the MM6 staff put the final touches on each look on the catwalk rather than backstage furthered that aim.