Alessandro Dell’Acqua conjured a femme fatale for fall 2023, twisting the tropes of femininity to achieve a disheveled elegance that’s on trend for the season, as seen on the runway at Tory Burch, among others.
The designer used as his starting point the great European actresses Monica Vitti and Jeanne Moreau, in the era when they were heroines of Michelangelo Antonioni’s sensual 1960s films, and the middle-class clichés of Italy started falling apart, he said. “It’s very elegant, but backward.”
On the runway, the clothes were sometimes literally backward, with an enveloping camel coat worn back to front, and a gray cardigan back-buttoned over a black embroidered pencil skirt. Lady suits were cropped to show a bare midriff, tight sweaters trimmed with faux fur collars, and straps slid suggestively off a wool shift dress.
Boudoir dresses with sheer effects were quite lovely, including a black tromp l’oeil style created from two slips fused together. Other dresses had the effect of bodices peeling down, suggesting a state of undress, and revealing sheer layers worn underneath.
As pretty as it was, there were not many new ideas here. One accessory did stand out, however — a scorpion brooch worn on the back. Talk about a self-defense mechanism.