Heron Preston returned to New York Fashion Week with his fall 2023 collection, paying homage to the city after showing several seasons in Paris.
“It feels great,” the designer said backstage about his first official runway show as part of NYFW. “So many friends and family are here who can’t make it to Paris sometimes when I’ve shown out there, so I’m really excited to just see all of my community under one roof to celebrate the collection.”
Preston took inspiration for the fall collection, titled “Anything Goes,” through “found objects,” giving a nod to the rawness of the city by juxtaposing materials like chainmail, barbed wire and metal hardware with more traditional fabrics.
The designer described the fall collection as more focused than his prior releases, delivering the classic men’s and women’s streetwear pieces he’s become known for, such as varsity jackets, puffer coats and graphic T-shirts, among other styles.
“The inspiration through the collection is all just a reflection of the streets that surround me,” he said. “I’ve always said that the face of fashion is all of us, so that’s what I really embrace as I leave my house every day. What surrounds me is what I really love as a soundboard to inform my collections, so that’s what the theme is of this season — layering that into the DNA of what I’ve been building over the years. It’s kind of building from the past and pushing into the future.”
The men’s and women’s pieces — the latter designed by Preston’s girlfriend, Sabrina Albarello — were intertwined, with both featuring utilitarian details and nods to traditional workwear.
The women’s pieces referenced Preston’s streetwear sensibility and added in a soft touch, mixing styles like a mesh bodysuit worn under a distressed leather cropped set or a tweed matching crop top and skirt set worn over printed sweatpants to create balanced looks.
Preston highlighted the collection’s accessories as some of his key pieces, such as the jewelry and footwear created in barbed wire, the fur boots and chainmail pieces. The collection also offered 3D-printed sneakers and Preston’s first water shoe: a traditional sneaker silhouette with holes that allow water to drain.
The men’s pieces continued the theme of contrasts, with styles like revamped dress shirts with graphic designs and a suit made from Tyvek material.
“It’s all about function and utility, but also comfort and great fits,” he said about the men’s apparel. “I was kind of playing with contrasts here. It keeps you on your toes.”