On Thursday morning at the Theory showroom in the Meatpacking District, chief merchant and creative officer Jeffrey Kalinsky (formerly of the famed Jeffrey retail boutiques) moderated the brand’s latest collection. As each look emerged down the runway, Kalinsky’s cheerful commentary (and upbeat soundtrack) brought forth a welcomed sense of reality to the straightforward, chic women’s fashions.
“It’s designed to kiss in exactly the right place,” he said of look four’s ivory cropped collared jacket atop a matching thin, regal wool turtleneck with double-face wool-cashmere high-waisted miniskirt, opaque ivory tights and polished metallic leather mary jane wedges. Later calling out, “She’s my girl,” as a model emerged in a strong light gray check cropped jacket and high-waisted mini. The shortened silhouette was prominent throughout and stemmed from the collection’s contemporary interpretation of Mod sensibility (which spanned from shift dresses, sleeveless tunics and roll-neck tops to streamlined double-flannel car coats).
“I think it’s just my love of everything Mod,” Kalinsky explained of the influence. “When I had the [Jeffrey] store, there were just certain things I’ve always gravitated to — that’s just a feeling that I think is all those things. It’s modern, it’s ageless, it’s timeless — and you can put anybody in it.”
The assortment nicely balanced new takes on Theory’s signature tailoring, which included plenty of sharp menswear-inspired blazers and fitted trousers, with soft blouses, classic button downs and sophisticated outerwear. The latter included a sportif double-flannel bomber and aero nylon parka — both styled over wool jersey “base layers,” such as a catsuit — as well as sophisticated topcoats and a chocolate brown suede utility trench. Nothing was stuffy or overtly trend-driven, but rather, as Kalinsky aptly described, “modern, ageless, timeless” and certainly retail-friendly.