For its seventh collection, Who Decides War designers Everard Best and Tela D’Amore wanted to home in on the streetwear brand’s established design codes, leaning heavily into denim, leather pieces and its signature stained glass window motif. The designers held their fall 2023 runway show at the Angel Orensanz Foundation, which they chose partially because the former synagogue was the venue of Alexander McQueen’s first New York runway show.
The designers referenced New York City for their collection, called “Politics as Usual,” stating they referenced the city’s “power dressers” ranging from Park Avenue business people to underground aesthetics.
That inspiration came through in several looks that mixed a business and casual vibe, such as a brown leather jacket worn over a pinstripe coat paired with distressed denim or an undone dress shirt worn over a white T-shirt and jeans paired with a massive leather briefcase.
The collection is described as coming at a transitional period for the brand as it dials back its written font logo and focuses on its signature stained glass motif, which appeared on several pieces including puffer jackets (some of which were created in collaboration with Milan-based outerwear brand ADD), denim styles and cutout pieces.
Who Decides War continued its popular distressed denim jeans this season with an array of styles. D’Amore explained the brand perfected their women’s denim silhouette this season, which is a take on the men’s jeans but with a higher waistline.
Overall, the collection offered a cohesive lineup that exemplified Who Decides War’s skills in denim and streetwear.