What would Jean-Michel Basquiat wear? That was the question designer Marie-Christine Statz and artist Camille Henrot kicked about ahead of the fall collection of Gauchere, Statz’s 10-year-old label.
Central to the season was a white silk pajama set that featured Henrot’s erotic sketches arranged into a tongue-in-cheek print. It looked abstract-enough from afar but was positively promiscuous up close.
Statz posited it was something Basquiat could have worn in ‘80s New York and felt that it needed twisted into something for today’s women, congruent with her brand’s gender-irrelevant approach.
Add to that Statz and Henrot’s shared appreciation of art and a desire to see it in movement and the lineup was about seeing Henrot’s art come alive, with a late-20th-century slant.
Fluid fabrics, strategically placed cuts and liquid-looking fabrics made Statz’s razor-sharp tailoring come alive as models walked, imparting a sensual overtone.
Strongest here were takes on classic suiting that included a tone-on-tone textured check, strong-shouldered dresses that kissed the floor and roomy trousers. Jeans had that oversize ‘90s quality to them, but there was nothing haphazard in the way they hung loosely from the hips.
Shown in the Passage des Jacobins traversing the ‘70s glass building designed by architect Ricardo Bofill on Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, the fall Gauchere lineup had an of-the-moment quality.