For Tuesday’s runway show, Miu Miu made a big deal of linking with South Korean choreographer and performance artist Geumhyung Jeong, who is known for her manipulation of mechanical objects and her edgy, sensual staging.
But the artist’s work was not exactly front and center on the industrial-looking set at Palais d’Iéna, which just had a few TV monitors hanging over the runway featuring a looping film of what were presumably Jeong’s hands touching and caressing button-down shirts and other garments.
The intent may have been to add an aura of techno-intimacy — which is something that Miu Miu’s young, always-connected fashion tribe is no doubt well versed in — but the emotion just wasn’t there.
What was there was an elevation of everyday wear along the lines of what Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons did in Milan, but with more gender-fluid expression, led by some starry models.
Fifteen-year-old Zaya Wade made her runway debut in a forest green knit dress and oversize boyfriend blazer, and “The Crown” actress Emma Corrin, who identifies as nonbinary, walked the runway wearing a camel sweater and chunky crystal panties.
The collection projected the “Euphoria” generation’s laissez-faire attitude about sexuality, already on full display among front-row guests wearing all manner of transparent sequined slipdresses with nothing more than Miu Miu logo bras and briefs underneath.
For fall, the look was largely pant-less, with oversize peacoats and hoodies worn with tonal tights and slingback shoes.
Prada continued to play with lingerie dressing, on sheer polka dot skirts worn with cardigans tucked into the tights underneath, and on lovely sheer mesh dresses and cardigans with 3D crystal flower embroidery.
Half in the office and half out came to mind when watching the leggings, sneakers, hoodies and strong outerwear looks, which played to the reality most are still living in, even as designers have shown lots of sophisticated suiting this month. That said, Prada’s more dressed-up crinkly leather micro-minidresses and meaty jacket and skirt suits did look good.
There were lots of looks that could be construed as menswear, but the brand said gender-fluid was the preferred term and the casting reflected that.
The collection could have used an edit and maybe a few more fireworks. But in a season when quirky, undone elegance has been a hot topic, from Tory Burch in New York to No. 21 in Milan and elsewhere, too, Prada does that better than anyone. The disheveled hair and eyeglasses glam was thoroughly relatable.