The premise for Vincent Garnier Pressiat’s fall collection was a bourgeois Parisian woman from the tony side of town ending up lost in more ways than one in Pigalle. Or as he later put it backstage, “Belle de Jour” minus the moral judgment.
And where better to dip into decadence than Le Carmen, a famous night spot in the neighborhood? She’d certainly be in good company with a cast that included performer Allanah Starr and singer Halsey.
Par for the course were the corsetry work, the hand-tooled finishes and all manners of lingerie dressing the designer is known for, flavored with the remnants of a prim and proper wardrobe.
There was a demure looking white suit that revealed a fully laced back. One model, sporting a flaming red beehive and a tweed suit revisited with chains and black flowers, was an evocation of the original chic rebel — the late Dame Vivienne. Another, wrapped in an oversize latex trench and matching headscarf nodded to Catherine Deneuve’s character in Luis Buñuel’s film. Tailoring remained sharp and with an eye for flattering cuts, be they tight or loose.
Freshest were the draped looks, particularly floor skimming gowns and tops, a direction he said he was keen to explore. It showed that while Pressiat’s found his groove — and fan base — the party’s only just getting started.