Couture week is when Rogier Vivier usually trots out the house’s fanciest horn-of-plenty accessories, brimming with precious trims. But this season the company is changing tactics by launching Rendez-Vous, a new limited edition concept designed to bridge the gap between the former couture collection and the house’s main line — all without skimping on elegance or innovation.
In the mood for a fresher, lighter, more contemporary direction, creative director Bruno Frisoni said he liked the idea of industrializing atelier craftsmanship. Gluing a leaf of teak to leather, for instance, creates a new crafty material for the house’s tube clutch, as do horn sequins on chainmail and coils of resin-coated white cord for other Vivier bag classics.
The iconic Vivier Virgule shoe adopts new wavy lines, and is nicknamed the New Wave. For one summery straw version, Frisoni tapped a local hat maker to apply the same technique used for making straw hats, where ribbons of straw are stitched to create grooves. Plain double organza served as the canvas for a pretty blush hand-painted finish on another heel inspired by German artist Gotthard Graubner. The Rendez-Vous collection will tour a number of Roger Vivier stores worldwide starting January 2011. The number of editions for each design is yet to be determined.