Alexandre Vauthier is weaning himself off the dazzle of disco and embracing resplendent reality. He put a greater emphasis on day looks this season, pouring his precision-cutting skills into great tailoring.

Cropped carrot pants came with a particularly high waist, mimicking a tuxedo cummerbund and telegraphing a sexy, cool attitude. Vauthier unleashed his inventiveness by proposing seven styles of suit jackets, ranging from boxy-shouldered numbers to others with asymmetric lapels, all cropped and worked close to the body.

Though there were plenty of flashy evening options such as a one-shouldered romper embroidered in oxblood crystals, it was Vauthier’s craftsmanship that came to the fore. Lace embroidered with python and mink — shaven, then laser-cut to resemble lace — were among the standout techniques.

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