Buy-now-wear-now couture? Giambattista Valli let loose with a collection that brought to mind some glamorous beach club in the era of Classical Hollywood, with its awning stripes, sunny colors and dresses crawling with spring blooms.
Valli has sought to loosen up couture, frequently sending out models with wash-and-go hairstyles. Here, locks were tossed lazily under white scarves, and sunglasses gave the models additional mystique as they zigzagged a carpeted runway in pajama tops paired with grand evening skirts.
Except for a few Cruella de Vil capes in spotted fur and swanky draped gowns in black jersey, it could have been a summer collection. It was fetching nonetheless, as Valli applied his dense floral embroideries to flaring Fifties dresses in sturdy white silk faille, or slinky sheaths in more gossamer fabrics, bathing suit bottoms winking underneath.
The designer never met a flower he didn’t like, and he scattered wisteria, daisies and geraniums on luncheon suits and cocktail dresses alike. He also indulged his penchant for the occasional swag of fabric falling from the hip line.
Valli played against type with his striped, pajamalike coats, pants and shirtdresses. Two-piece dresses banded in black and white sequins looked crisp and modern, and showed the designer pushing his boundaries.
The finale looks featured grand skirts made of undulating tulle ruffles tinted a dégradé of vivid colors. Once the models stopped zigzagging, the Instagram moments took over.