Is the Russian economic crisis stirring up ghosts of the past? Ulyana Sergeenko, whose label has been hit hard by the ruble’s turbulence, said Soviet-era communal apartments — where fallen aristocrats were forced to co-habit with working-class folk — inspired her fall couture show.
The notes heralded a “new modesty in shapes, colors, decorations” and the opening outfit — a plain black coatdress with draping over the hips — indeed signaled restraint.
However, it rapidly became clear that Sergeenko does not do broke. By way of a housecoat, she conjured a baby blue maxi fur worn over a negligée-style pale pink bustier dress. Many outfits were paired with sky-high Christian Louboutin satin mules with mink puffs that had some models wobbling like newborn foals.
Her trademark sweetheart necklines appeared on mididresses, some featuring a cascade of pleated ruffles over one hip, others embellished with colored sequins inspired by party confetti. But the designer showed an uncharacteristically steamy side with sheer tops that left one or both breasts exposed.
Like the opulent handbags — oversize orbs in jewel tones, or embellished satin ice cream cones – these gowns had a decadent undercurrent that signaled defiance in the face of impending doom. As the models paraded through gilded salons hung with crystal chandeliers, the spirit of Marie Antoinette was not too far off.