Yiqing Yin’s haute couture line is no longer what it was. In lieu of painstakingly crafted one-of-a-kind pieces, the collection has morphed into a kind of elevated ready-to-wear.
The designer acknowledged the transition, which began last season, by dubbing her fall collection “Shed My Skin.” To make the point, fabrics were textured to resemble reptile scales, with some outfits even featuring scraps of discarded python skin.
“There is a notion, when an animal or a woman is transforming, of a sense of pain or a form of violence. But paradoxically, there is the softness of a new skin, a rebirth,” Yin wrote in her show notes.
Indeed, there was plenty of skin on display as models paraded in outfits such as a wisp of a green slipdress over a bodice made of opalescent python skin. Bra tops anchored everything from a body-hugging navy silk jumpsuit with pleats at the neckline and sides, to bouffant white pants with a matching kimono jacket.
Yin played with textural effects, inserting cobwebby panels into a sunburst-pleated maxidress printed with a blown-up pattern of torn lace. The motif separated when the folds in the fabric split open — a technique she had also used in her fall rtw show for Leonard.
Some of the simplest looks were the most effective — witness a liquid gold Lurex evening gown that looked as though it had just been draped on the body. But the closing look, a top and skirt made from intricately beaded crochet, was a reminder of the precious skills the designer is trimming as she continues her transformation.