Stéphane Rolland has of late taken a more pared-down approach to his collections, opting for intimate presentations at his headquarters on Avenue George V in lieu of the big-bang shows of yore. And this season his collection also showed a softer side, with his “bubble” skirt. “I wanted to show that we can take from the past in a more modern way than the typical Grace Kelly look that we see everywhere now,” he said of a twist on the classic ballgown in color-blocked black and nude taffeta, organza and tulle with a soft, duvet-like aspect on the skirt.

Not to say the couturier is letting go of his signature bold sculptural gowns. “This is the yin and the yang,” he said of a split-personality silhouette that was half structured black jersey, half white silk crepe cape, with a jagged “cubic” tulle window running down the middle. Its inspiration: the work of Spanish painter Pablo Palazuelo, a close friend of Cristóbal Balenciaga. “I think unconsciously I have always been inspired by the pure, graphic nature of his paintings,” Rolland said. Other silhouettes included a gown wrapped in huge white folds, like an orchid, which looked a little claustrophobic.

Rolland also presented a new “haute fur” capsule of around 15 pieces, including a kilt-like suede skirt with a knitted mink panel at the front and mink vests in complex labyrinth constructions. A fur interior design line is in the works, he said.

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