After 10 years of collaborating with Karl Lagerfeld and stints working with John Galliano at Dior and at Mugler, Sofia Crociani is going it alone. The Italian designer, based between Florence and Paris, quietly debuted her couture collection with a focus on eco-friendly fabrics like organic silk and elegant, minimal looks with whispers of poetry that are intended to stand the test of time.
“We need to stop consuming and go back to thinking about the value of a piece of clothing that can be handed down from generation to generation,” she said by way of introduction to the line, which had already seen orders from private clients after just a day of appointments.
There were touches of the ethereal, perhaps the result of Crociani’s work in costume design for contemporary dance, found in the form of layered organza skirts with paper bag waists in several shades of white and deepest blue. These were worn over a wool and cashmere catsuit that oozed girl power at its most elegant, and was inspired by Italian illustrators Angela and Luciana Giussani. Another organza skirt was transformed into a dress with just a wide vintage ribbon to protect the model’s modesty.
Leather and fur — all made from meat byproducts in line with the label’s sustainable ethos — provided contrasting volumes and textures. A long sleeveless coat in three textures and shades of lambskin was a standout, as was a superfine leather jacket in midnight blue that could be screwed up into a pouch for travel and emerge unscathed.
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