“Couture can be a bit ceremonial and serious but you can have fun. It’s a question of attitude,” said Alexandre Vauthier, who channeled retro glamour à la Studio 54, with giant disco balls hanging over the runway and hot pink lights accentuating the line’s after-dark mood. Transparency and glitter were among the leitmotifs.
Ready to hit the dance floor was a black crystal-and-lace jumpsuit cinched with a baby pink metallic belt, wrap dresses in pastel metallics or glossy black python and a springy black-and-white organza polka-dot mini.
The accessories included metallic footwear, veiled hats and supersized asymmetric crystal chandelier earrings straight out of the Eighties. Vauthier also revisited Le Smoking with a short wide pant with a high split, accessorized with metallic boots. But it was the quieter moments like the ultradelicate organza tops with expertly sculpted ruffles that sang.
Nodding to haute couture’s upbeat, opulent heyday, the show as a whole felt a tad costume-y, but the collection, in its unabashedly sexy parts, will speak to the label’s growing band of modern-day couture clients after something fancy to wear for a night out on the town.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Chanel Couture Fall 2017: Karl Lagerfeld focused on an essential tenet shared by the Eiffel Tower and couture itself: perfection of structure.
Backstage at Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: Peter Philips and Guido Palau fashioned the beauty look of the show.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ’n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.
Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has welcomed five brands as guest members on this season’s schedule.