For his first effort at the helm of Azzaro, Maxime Simoens did everything he could to catch the light: rhinestone chokers held up fluid swathes of silk; crystals climbed the sleeves of a slinky long-sleeve minidress; dots of light gleamed and outlined the folds of a drape. Even a transparent plastic raincoat reflected the slightest ray. Backs, reflected in the mirrored décor, revealed embellishments that left the front of outfits simple.

Backstage, the designer, who  recently stepped back into fashion, reaffirmed his desire to pay homage to Loris Azzaro and his bejeweled dresses. “There are many different kinds of couture today. The overwrought version of couture and the women who dressed like this don’t really exist anymore,” he said, adding that this collection was a mix of couture and “couture-à-porter,” to be sold through retailers.

Most memorable were the opening dress — a reinterpretation of the three-ring dress, this time with the holes placed on the back — aviator jackets trimmed in chinchilla, and trousers with sheer or crystal inlays at the hips.

More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:

Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.

Paris to Honor Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel Couture Show: Mayor Anne Hidalgo is to decorate the couturier with a Grand Vermeil medal, the city’s highest distinction.

Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has welcomed five brands as guest members on this season’s schedule.

Couture Week Tells Its Stories on Instagram: The French fashion federation reiterates its social initiatives with a cadre of 11 influential guest posters capturing the mood of a week of couture shenanigans.