Christine Hyun Mi Nielsen’s second solo collection was a patchwork of elements she loves.

“It’s very eclectic,” the designer said backstage before her show, pointing to a mood board lined with images ranging from old folk costumes to Madonna. Nielsen nodded to the Scandinavia of her childhood, too.

Black-and-white photos and graphic details appeared on the board. “So that’s why I worked a lot with surface treatments, with different textures,” explained Nielsen. “I’m revisiting the ruffle, the bows.”

She referenced Fifties couture, with pointy busts and tiny waists, and the punk trend. “I always like if there’s something that’s quite contrasting in a collection,” she continued.

That goal was achieved, with a line mixing innocence and eroticism, daywear and occasionwear. Take the trenchlike coat with oversized sleeves and ruffles spangling the back or the white tailored shirt paired with black oversized patent leather trousers.

Silhouettes were voluminous and linear, while fabrics spanned vintage denim to tulle and cotton jacquards. Nielsen displayed a deft sartorial hand, although the lack of cohesion in the collection’s styles diffused its effect.

More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:

Backstage at Giambattista Valli Couture Fall 2017: Val Garland and James Pecis created the beauty look of the show.

Backstage at Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: Peter Philips and Guido Palau fashioned the beauty look of the show.

Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.

Iris Van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.

Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has welcomed five brands as guest members on this season’s schedule.

Couture Week Tells Its Stories on Instagram: The French fashion federation reiterates its social initiatives with a cadre of 11 influential guest posters capturing the mood of a week of couture shenanigans.

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