Rami Kadi presented his collection in a gilded room at the Hotel Le Meurice, explaining that the stripes and geometric forms sprang from a dark mood. They were first sketched out with felt pens, which he described as “not very pretty.”
But he tweaked the patterns, tracing them with rows of sequins, glass beads and leather stitched on tulle fabric. Some twisted and curved, while others were repeated in different scales.
The color scheme was disciplined, serving as a solid backbone to the collection: black, white, emerald green and sapphire blue. Ostrich feathers in this palette touched the floor, reflecting the matching stripes of a glittery bodice. Leather-belted waistlines added a touch of rigidity.
But Kadi also played with light, harnessing it with silver holographic sequins. And for the modern princess in the Middle East, Russia or perhaps Texas, how about a long, skirted dress, made with strips of clear, PVC plastic shimmering in iridescent blues and greens?
Surveying the bold expressions, the designer was asked if he had found peace through the collection.
“Serenity, perhaps not, but I found inspiration,” said Kadi quietly, revealing no hints of a brooding interior while somber music played in the background.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Backstage at Giambattista Valli Couture Fall 2017: Val Garland and James Pecis created the beauty look of the show.
Backstage at Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: Peter Philips and Guido Palau fashioned the beauty look of the show.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris Van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.
Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has welcomed five brands as guest members on this season’s schedule.
Couture Week Tells Its Stories on Instagram: The French fashion federation reiterates its social initiatives with a cadre of 11 influential guest posters capturing the mood of a week of couture shenanigans.