Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti toned things down for this second couture outing for the Italian label, staged as a presentation in the gardens of the Italian Cultural Institute. Referencing the golden age of Hollywood and the Parisian origins of couture, the collection of just 10 gowns exalted pleating and embroidery techniques created in the label’s recently opened Milan atelier.

There was still plenty of glitz and glamour — the house’s signatures — by way of extensive glittering embroideries and encrusted jewels. Redemption’s sexy rock ‘n’ roll influence also remained visible, as in a couple of allover sequined numbers, whether long and off-the-shoulder or super short with a motif evoking snakeskin, but they were not in the majority.

Overall, the collection benefited from being less overt: A pleated minidress with a flowing, layered train in black, and a lilac backless number with a glittering bodice, pleated cummerbund waist and full skirt were cases in point.

More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:

Backstage at Giambattista Valli Couture Fall 2017: Val Garland and James Pecis created the beauty look of the show.

Backstage at Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: Peter Philips and Guido Palau fashioned the beauty look of the show.

Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.

Iris Van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.

Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: France’s Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture has welcomed five brands as guest members on this season’s schedule.

Couture Week Tells Its Stories on Instagram: The French fashion federation reiterates its social initiatives with a cadre of 11 influential guest posters capturing the mood of a week of couture shenanigans.