Stéphane Rolland, as a master of bold, big-volume couture, has taken to favoring stages over runways, this season booking out one of the halls of Radio France. The setting was impressive, with six percussionists positioned above the stage providing the soundtrack.
But in terms of theatricality, Rolland toned it down, presenting a lighter, more fluid evolution of his aesthetic, to the collection’s favor.
The palette, especially the camel cashmeres and pops of deep rose, was also calming.
He moved between organic and futuristic embellishments, such as the curved leather plastrons on gowns, the lines of shell-like 3-D embroidery and the sharp, sculptural collars on a long tuxedo coat-dress with long sleeves.
The final run of voluminous gowns, which were lovely, and touches like the medieval-style floral embroidery, billowing sleeves and trains added a Renaissance flavor, only broken by elements such as skinny pants and boots.
Overall it felt chicer in tone, down to the wedding dress — an airy cloud of white organza dusted with crystals.