Alberta Ferretti did not hold back with her Limited Edition demi-couture collection, with bold designs and intricate 3-D embroideries, which belied an underlying simplicity. Indeed, simplicity was a starting point for the designer, who said she was looking to “create a new silhouette with new, important volumes,” with an eye on “personalization and eccentricity” at the same time.

Big bows, sculptural sleeves, capes and draping on beautiful fabrics such as radzmir contrasted with simple silhouettes. Ferretti said the designs reflected “a woman’s strong identity,” which has always fascinated her and she enthused about “a dress that can move, accompany and transform a woman.”

This season, the designer also further elaborated the marine theme she developed for her latest resort lineup, shown in May in Monte Carlo, with fairy-tale lamé embroideries on jacquard gowns that looked like the seabed of an ocean, or delicate chiffon slipdresses embellished with degradé sequins that had a wet effect similar to “drops that fall off the body,” said the designer, reiterating her ongoing fascination with nature.

What Ferretti dubbed an “unexpected color palette” of acid sherbet green or mustard, with touches of vivid red, contrasted with the blues and azures of the sea theme.

Ferretti is also catering to a younger customer and tweaked her sophisticated designs to this end, adding short sequined tops worn over fluid pants that looked liked a skirt, or a low-cut jumpsuit with a jewel embroidery cinching the waist.

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