Ronald van der Kemp continues to shout his sustainable high-fashion message loud and clear, and the resonance of his clarion call grows increasingly stronger.
Made with 98 percent repurposed materials — overstock, vintage, leftovers from previous seasons and factory waste — the fabric was the starting point for each design in this eclectic collection, which had something for every taste.
From a hand-draped pink silk gown in the Grecian style or a wool satin black tailored suit with an Eighties power-dressing feel to a rainbow-hued fringed gown made from tubes of leftover vintage printed silk and everything in between, the collection took in almost every era and style, from the most classic to the outright wacky.
The opening sharp-shouldered column dress in silk gazar was hand painted by van der Kemp like a modernist artwork, giving it the stiffness of a canvas. A pencil skirt paired with a royal blue silk blouse was offered the same treatment in a slightly toned down — but no less artistic — alternative for day.
The designer wrote his “fashion manifesto” by hand onto a pair of white jeans with leather inserts in one of the more streetwise looks, paired with stars and stripes boots and belt.
As a statement against fake fur — the environmental impact of which has been called into question, despite its cruelty-free status — there was a coat made with recycled down stuffed into tubes and covered in floral silk crêpe in blue and white, a stole given the same treatment in a leopard-print version.
A three-dimensional patchwork dress integrated leftover flags from a previous collection, also used on the shoes. Even the matching sunglasses were made from reclaimed horn.
Beyond the collection’s message, which was crystal clear, the designer’s skill and technique were also glaringly apparent.