Ulyana Sergeenko’s luxury loving jetsetter left behind her old life in search of adventure, traveling east to Uzbekistan with only the clothes on her back — namely the burgundy patent leather trench dress and black-and-white bustier gown of the opening looks in the Russian designer’s fall couture collection.
When she arrives, her wardrobe takes on the influences of Samarkand, with its Islamic architecture and influential position on the ancient Silk Road, picking up her eclectic finds in the city’s bustling souks, overtaking the senses.
Metallic motifs found their way onto fluid organza dresses and harem pants in a deep palette of forest green and burgundy, adorned with colorful tassels or sequins. Her voluminous capes were worked in hand-painted silk in black or mustard yellow or inspired by the geometric patterns of the carpets of the region.
Decadent bodices and dresses offered a colorful display of allover sequins. In other looks, ballooning silks and jacquards undulated in an array of pink and lilac shades or orange and gold. Sergeenko amplified the silhouette with exaggerated shoulders, ample skirts and cinched waists, one of her signatures.
There was a charm in the balance of opulence and folklore to many of the looks, taking Sergeenko into new territory while remaining true to her ethos of highlighting the cultural diversity and handicrafts of the former Soviet states in her own lavish register.