When she started working on her fall couture collection, Xuan-Thu Nguyen decided to eschew building a collection in favor of creating whatever struck her fancy. “Everything is always so serious. You have to make a concept, stick to it. So this season, I wanted to do whatever I like and if people don’t understand it, it’s fine by me,” she said after her show.
This translated into a lineup that felt, at times, disjointed in its expression, juxtaposing paper-bag trousers, a marabou coat in rainbow shades, petal dresses in pastel hues, and flirty shimmering sequined numbers. A swatch of checked Japanese waxed polyester caught her eye? In it went, cut into shirts and paired with trousers or a pouf skirt. Considering her previous season had been all black, her palette felt all the more exuberant, ranging from soft pink and baby blue, to bright red and black. As Nguyen said, “If I liked it, why shouldn’t I do it?” Why not, indeed.