Francesco Scognamiglio opted for the couture season to launch his new fashion line, called Monogram From Sea.
As the designer explained, the sea was the main source of inspiration for the concise and cohesive couture lineup, which offered a compilation of Scognamiglio’s signatures, including transparencies, exquisite embroideries, draping and deconstructed tailoring.
The designer said he embraced a “sensitive approach,” translated via the use of corsets and bustiers handmade in Naples in the ’50s that he revisited for separates and sheer gowns, embellished with crystals, but also with French archival embroidered inserts.
Draped black jersey frocks cut in feminine silhouettes contrasted with the mannish appeal of handmade blazers and suits, sometimes coated for a lizard-like texture. Their baggy shorts, as well as the embroidered sweatshirts, injected a practical, street-influenced note into the collection. “I wanted to show a more functional and comfortable aspect of couture,” Scognamiglio said.
However, the designer couldn’t resist indulging in his sensual, lightweight gowns, including a dramatic sheer pink style punctuated with tone-on-tone crystals, which was presented with a coordinated veil that echoed the famed Veiled Christ sculpture at the Cappella Sansevero in Pompeii, Scognamiglio’s hometown.