Going to a Julie de Libran couture show is like being invited to brunch at the designer’s home. Guests are treated to finger sandwiches and biscuits stamped with her initials, and sit on her sofa and chairs to watch models wind their way through the living room, inner courtyard and kitchen of the basement floor.
This season, de Libran even put the finishing touches to some of the outfits herself. “I’ve been passing nights and nights sewing, and it’s just wonderful to be in that kind of bubble for myself. I don’t always get to do that,” she said. “It’s like therapy for me.”
One of the outfits she worked on was a sheath made of distressed chiffon that was reembroidered with sequins. “It’s actually sewn on the body and it’s like a second skin,” she noted. De Libran works in a sustainable way, producing highly limited quantities of each style and using deadstock fabrics whenever possible.
Lamé is something of a signature for her brand. It was used for outfits that included a slit tunic with fluttering kimono sleeves, a black caftan with jeweled clasps at the neck, and a blouse and skirt set worn with a brocade jacket, for a day-to-evening look.
De Libran said she was inspired by a Peter Lindbergh photograph of Amber Valletta with angel wings. The reference was most apparent in a black portrait neckline dress with a white ostrich feather boa.
Meanwhile, surplus items from her collaboration with Eres, including lace bodysuits, bra tops and leggings, were given a new lease on life with a bedazzling of chunky Swarovski crystals.
This season, de Libran partnered with French specialist Causse on items including scooped silver driving gloves trimmed with a chain, and bicolor evening gloves. She also teamed with beauty brand Sisley on a black leather lipstick holder worn around the neck.
Like the clothes themselves, each element closely reflected de Libran’s personal style — a uniquely appealing calling card.