Elie Saab wrote an ode to the crepuscule, a game of shadows drawn in contrasts between geometric lines and rounded, sun-like forms. His models emerged from behind translucent panels, their silhouettes outlined by the sun shining through the skylights of the Carreau du Temple venue to be revealed in hues that went from the palest pinks and blues to the vivid red of the evening sky or midnight black.
Needless to say, there were plenty of twinkling stars in his heavily embellished sky, and a plethora of red carpet-friendly gowns — and suits, he added men’s couture pieces to the collection for the first time, as reported — for his clientele to sparkle in.
Glittering snake ornaments provided sinuous structure to simpler silhouettes, while strands of sequins and dangling crystals tinkled on the runway. The zigzag motifs of feathered mermaid skirts in dusky shades evolved into versions done in thousands of chiffon circles, fluttering like myriad petals.
Playing with regal references, he elongated and exaggerated the silhouette with tall collar necklines, often heavily bejeweled, stately capes and trains, and billowing boleros that framed the head like giant silk crowns.
Among the more interesting silhouettes, a reverse feline motif — the spots were worked in nude tulle and surrounded by silver beads on a black background — morphed into a symmetrical, brocade-like pattern on the bodice of a gown. Other highlights included an asymmetric second-skin minidress with dangling crystal strands and a jumpsuit in white and blue with a deep sweetheart neckline.