The designer is known for using elements that verge on bad taste, and this season was no exception. Leather, leopard prints and fur all roared onto the runway, but Christopher Kane offered a dark and subversive — rather than glam — take on the materials. Models with a Gothic pallor filed out in knee-length leather skirts and matching jackets in black and white pinstripes, and shift dresses in red or purple Moiré, with leather piping at the hems and shoulders. Even the prettier looks had a sinister air, such as a purple tulle shift dress covered with appliquéd black velvet flowers. While some of Kane’s harder-edged ideas might tread an editorial rather than commercial line, his singular vision always has an impact.

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