Inspired by the architecture of Antonio Gaudi, Gilles Mendel focused on mixed textures, rounded shapes and, most of all, mosaiclike details. The latter were worked to great effect on shaded coats and jackets, some in mixtures of up to eight furs, including badger, raccoon, goat, mink and shadow fox. But it was Mendel’s opening white group that was best in show, beautifully executed with a long cashmere and Swakara cardigan, chiffon top and pleated skirt. His sportier looks, such as a black tiered shearling jacket and flippy short skirt, were also successful, but the full-skirted minidresses in luxe fabrics seemed too girly coming from a designer whose eveningwear is usually so sophisticated.