The brooding and slightly naughty mood that coursed through Andrew Gn’s collection was somewhat unexpected for a designer who is known for his jolly disposition and caters to a crowd of fancy, well-heeled women. Backstage before the show, Gn said he had been looking at the Victorian photographs of Lewis Carroll, from which he drew a moody, Gothic sensibility that imbued the clothes with a dark opulence. It worked quite well for daywear, if that’s what you call mink-embellished coats and crepe dresses with fur epaulets. The wispy georgette blouses were beautiful, some with basket weave details around the shoulders, or lace and feather appliqués. Fabrics and craftsmanship were top notch. Shown with velvet shorts or short skirts that were fitted around the hips with a fluted hem, the look was current and youthful, which is what Gn seemed to be getting at by styling it with fishnet stockings, baroque chokers and cuffs.

Gothic glamour is tricky, particularly when it skews sexy, which is where Gn went for evening. Done in Victorian silhouettes that hugged the body and pooled around the ankles, the gowns were lavished with jet beading, ostrich feathers and lace. One style was cut into a deep V-neck, laced up with thick velvet ribbon — dramatic but in a costumey way.

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