The models at Ann Demeulemeester’s show wore their hair slicked into a wild crown of blades and black feathers, with long gloves on their arms and, on their legs, black leather pants that melted into mean boots — part pirate, part cowboy from hell. The sum of the parts brought to mind Edward Scissorhands, and, like the character, there was a poetic beauty within the menacing exterior.
What wasn’t black was a mesmerizing shade of inky, midnight blue. The collection, too, essentially boiled down to two themes — powerful outerwear and darkly elegant dresses — worked in an abundance of variations and fabrics rich with dimension. Tailored jackets and trenches came cut up into asymmetrical folds with sculpted collars, slim sleeves that zipped to the cuff and nipped waists that fell into thick, deconstructed pleats. Long, lean dresses were completely plain aside from a single drape at the neckline or back. They were gorgeous in their simplicity and proved how graceful the proverbially tough girl can be.